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In 2019, when Annie’s received an America’s Classics award from the James Beard Foundation, the restaurant critic David Hagedorn wrote of how, in its early days, Annie “went up to two men holding hands under the table and told them they were welcome to hold hands above it.”
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Manatus was so gay, it had a sobriquet: Mana-tush. Florent was around the corner from a notorious sex club in the meatpacking district. There was that incredibly hot Italian waiter at Food Bar. Universal Grill cranked “Dancing Queen” on birthdays. Scott Frankel’s favorite memories of New York gay restaurants aren’t about food.